Aussiedoodles: Not From Australia

Aussiedoodles combine two intensely intelligent working breeds.


By Luke Buchanan
4 min read

The Toe Beans Co

Australian Shepherd Poodle mix dog training guide, The Toe Beans Co

3 common Aussiedoodle behaviour problems (and how to fix them)

Remember: Your Aussiedoodle carries the genes of Australian Shepherds bred to control stubborn cattle through intense focus and nipping. A dog that stalks your children is running centuries-old herding genetics, not acting aggressively.

Where Aussiedoodles come from

Aussiedoodles were created in the 1990s-2000s attempting to combine Australian Shepherd working drive and trainability with Poodle intelligence and a theoretically low-shedding coat. F1 crosses are most common, meaning massive variation in temperament, coat, and size within single litters.

A first generation cross is a genetic lottery rather than a standardised breed, so a puppy can land anywhere between its Australian Shepherd parent and its Poodle parent, and the breeder genuinely cannot tell you where. Read both parents when you go and see a litter, and take the two dogs in front of you as your guide rather than the cross name.

Australian Shepherd Poodle mix lifestyle, The Toe Beans Co

What were they bred to do?

  • No working purpose, created purely for the pet market
  • Australian Shepherds were bred for intense herding work, controlling livestock through nipping, stalking, and constant movement
  • Poodles were bred as intelligent retrievers requiring handler focus
  • Crossing these creates working breeds without work

Key breeding traits: Aussiedoodles carry high energy levels needing 2-3+ hours daily of structured exercise and mental work. They carry intense herding drive, including stalking, nipping, and reactivity to movement. When under-stimulated, they develop neurotic behaviours. Australian Shepherd aloofness with strangers combined with Poodle sensitivity creates potentially reactive dogs requiring extensive socialisation.

Why Aussiedoodles develop these behaviour problems

Your Aussiedoodle was bred from two high-drive working breeds. Crossing these creates dogs with potentially extreme working drive without appropriate outlets. The intelligence that's marketed as a benefit becomes a curse. These dogs need structured jobs daily or they create their own, usually through destructive and neurotic behaviours.

Problem 1: herding behaviours and nipping

What's happening

Your Aussiedoodle stalks children with intense staring, crouching, and following. They nip at heels, ankles, and hands. This is inherited herding behaviour, not aggression.

Why it happens

Australian Shepherds were bred for intense, close-contact herding requiring nipping at heels to move stubborn cattle. This is deeply genetic and emerges in crosses even in pet contexts.

The fix

  • Accept you will likely never remove this behaviour, only manage it
  • Make sure small children don't trigger your dog by running and screaming near them
  • Use a long line to practise extensive recall training
  • The moment nipping happens, whoever they nipped leaves immediately, every time
  • Take them calmly by the collar and place them in a separate room for 5 to 10 minutes, every time
  • Never chase them. Chasing turns it into a game

Struggling with herding and nipping? Our Skool community runs herding management protocols and video demonstrations of redirection techniques for working breeds.

Problem 2: reactivity and barrier frustration

What's happening

Your Aussiedoodle barks frantically at windows, fences, and doors, and lunges at other dogs on walks.

Why it happens

Australian Shepherds are naturally suspicious of strangers and new stimuli, and some become territorial. Barrier frustration adds to this: they see a trigger but can't reach it, and the frustration builds the longer it goes on.

The fix

  • Focus on stacking as many calm wins in a row as you can
  • If you need to stay 50m from another dog at first, that's fine
  • If your dog tenses up, stop, kneel down, and take them by the collar
  • Turn your back to the other dog if it's safe to do so, and wait for a shake-off or a big yawn, both signs they're settling
  • If they lunge or react, turn and walk away calmly. No punishment
  • Shorten the distance gradually, over weeks, not days

If the reactivity isn't shifting with distance work alone, a 1:1 adult dog training session gets a trainer working the exact trigger with you, in person.

Problem 3: separation anxiety

What's happening

Your Aussiedoodle panics when left alone. That can mean destruction, constant barking, or refusing to settle.

Why it happens

Australian Shepherds are bred to stay hyper-aware of their environment, and Poodles are similarly sensitive and prone to anxiety. Put the two together and you get double the anxiety genetics.

The fix

  • Practise mini-departures through the day, starting at 20 seconds
  • Come back without greeting, eye contact, or touch, and wait 5 full minutes until they're completely calm
  • Never make departures dramatic. Do the leaving actions at random times through the day so the cues stop meaning anything
  • Run 20 to 30 mini-departures over a weekend, each one short
  • When you get home and they're excited, freeze completely until they settle

Exhausted by your Aussiedoodle's anxiety? Our Skool community runs step-by-step separation protocols built for anxious working breeds.

Get the full support system for your Aussiedoodle

That's why we built our free Skool community: ongoing support at every stage.

Inside the community, you'll get:

  • Weekly live Q&A sessions where you can ask about YOUR specific Aussiedoodle
  • Full breed-specific courses covering everything from puppy raising to advanced behaviour work
  • A community of other Aussiedoodle owners going through the same thing
  • Video demonstrations so you can see the techniques in action
  • Troubleshooting help when something isn't working

Join The Toe Beans Co Skool community today, or book a free meet and greet if you'd rather start with a trainer in person.


Which areas of Sydney do you work in?

One to one training happens in your home, anywhere in Sydney within roughly a forty five minute drive of the Harbour Bridge. That covers the:

  • Inner City and City Centre
  • Eastern Suburbs
  • Inner West
  • Lower North Shore
  • Upper North Shore
  • Northern Beaches
  • Hills District
  • Western Sydney
  • South Sydney and St George

Group puppy school runs at six fixed venues within about eight kilometres of the Harbour Bridge: Paddington, Edgecliff, Neutral Bay, Zetland, Alexandria and Marrickville. All six are taking bookings. See the puppy school dates page for current dates.

What is the best way to get in touch?

You can always give us a ring if you have questions or book a complimentary meet and greet by following this link: Book Now

Does your training use pain, fear, force or aggression?

Absolutely not. If you want a method like that I suggest you call the 1980s, go back there and never get a dog.

We teach Relational Leadership, built on calm and consistent communication. The aim is a dog who chooses to look to you when something happens, rather than a dog who has been made to. No pain, no fear, no force, ever, and that is not a marketing line. Anything that works through intimidation gets you a quieter dog for a fortnight and a worse problem six months later.

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