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Before Rosie, a Groodle puppy, arrived at her new home in Cronulla, Luke Buchanan walked her owners through the setup in advance rather than letting them improvise on the day. The difference showed within a week: Rosie was reliably using her toilet area by day five, largely because the environment was built to make the right choice the easy one.
Luke Buchanan, Owner of The Toe Beans Co and Sydney's Puppy Trainer, treats home setup as half of toilet training, not a side task. Get the environment right and the training itself moves faster, with far fewer accidents to manage along the way.
Big enough to stand, turn around, and lie flat, no larger. An oversized crate gives a puppy room to toilet in one corner and sleep in the other, which undoes the instinct not to soil where they rest, the exact instinct crate training relies on. Use a divider panel to shrink a larger crate down while your puppy is still small, rather than buying multiple crates as they grow.
Position matters as much as size. A crate in an isolated laundry or garage, away from the family, often produces more distress crying than one placed in a bedroom or living area where the puppy can still sense people nearby. Introduce the crate gradually with food and calm associations before ever closing the door, rather than closing a puppy in cold on night one.
Consistency matters more than luxury. One sleep location, used every night from the start, teaches a puppy where settling happens far faster than a bed that moves around the house. If the crate is doubling as the overnight sleep spot, which it usually should for the first weeks, keep it in the same place every night rather than shifting it room to room while you experiment.
A puppy moved to a permanent sleeping spot, in their own room, a laundry, wherever it will genuinely stay long-term, settles faster than one bounced between temporary arrangements while the household decides what it actually wants.
Pick one toilet area, ideally outdoors, and take your puppy there at every key moment: on waking, after eating, after play, and last thing before bed. Consistency in location matters as much as timing, since a puppy learns the spot as much as the routine.
Watch for the tells rather than waiting for an accident: circling, sniffing intently, sudden stillness mid-play. These usually appear seconds before the puppy needs to go, and catching them is what actually prevents accidents rather than reacting to one after it's happened.
If an accident does happen indoors, clean it with an enzymatic cleaner made for pet odours, not a generic household product. Regular cleaners can leave a trace scent a puppy's nose still picks up, drawing them back to the same spot even when the mess looks completely gone to you.
Buying a crate sized for the adult dog your puppy will become, rather than one that fits now with a divider. Placing the crate somewhere isolated because the crying is easier to ignore there, which usually makes the crying worse, not better. Changing the toilet spot repeatedly because the current one seems inconvenient, which slows down the very habit you're trying to build. And skipping the environment setup entirely, assuming toilet training is purely about repetition rather than also being about removing the opportunities for things to go wrong.
Have everything in place, crate assembled and positioned, sleep area decided, toilet spot chosen, before your puppy actually arrives. Retrofitting a setup around a puppy who's already forming habits is always harder than starting with the right environment from hour one.
Want help getting your setup right before pickup day?
The Toe Beans Co runs a free SKOOL community where Sydney dog owners get training guides, Q&As, and direct support from Luke. It's free to join.
Upcoming Puppy Schools Across Sydney
Luke runs regular puppy schools right across Sydney, from the Lower North Shore through the Eastern Suburbs and out to Campbelltown. Check upcoming dates and book your spot.
Q: Should the crate be in the bedroom or somewhere quieter?
Somewhere the puppy can still sense the household, a bedroom or living area, usually settles better than an isolated spot, especially in the first few weeks.
Q: How do I know when my puppy needs the toilet?
Watch for circling, intense sniffing, or sudden stillness mid-play. These tells usually appear just before the puppy needs to go, well before an accident happens.
Q: What should I clean up an indoor accident with?
An enzymatic cleaner made specifically for pet odours. Regular household cleaners can leave a trace scent that draws the puppy back to the same spot.
Ideally in a crate in your bedroom or just outside it. Being close to you helps the puppy feel safe in a new environment. A crate with warm bedding and something that smells familiar, like a piece of cloth from the breeder, can help them settle. Expect some whimpering the first night or two.
No. Too much space too soon is overwhelming and makes toilet training very hard. Start with one room or a gated area, and expand access gradually as the puppy proves reliable. This approach also keeps your furniture safe during the chewing phase.
In a quiet corner with some natural light but away from cold drafts or direct sun. It should feel like a den, not a cage in the middle of a busy room. Keeping it in a fixed spot helps the puppy learn that it is their space. Move it to the bedroom at night if you want the puppy close.
Yes. Keep the feeding area separate from the sleeping area. Puppies generally do not want to eat where they sleep, and having clear distinct areas helps build routine. A fixed feeding spot also helps with toilet training, as puppies tend to need to go shortly after eating.
Keep the first few days calm and low-stimulation. Limit visitors and avoid overwhelming the puppy with too much attention at once. Stick to a simple routine from day one: feeding times, rest times, and short outdoor trips. Dogs settle through pattern and repetition, not excitement.
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ABSOLUTELY NOT. If you want a method like that I suggest you call the 1980's, go back there and never get a dog. We teach the dog calming code, a method based on positive action that reinforces your role as the leader in your dog's eyes.
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