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Oscar, an eight-week-old Dachshund puppy in Kirribilli, cried for most of his first three nights before his owners called Luke Buchanan, convinced something was wrong. Nothing was wrong. Oscar had just been separated from his litter for the first time in his life, and three nights of adjustment, handled the right way, is a completely normal range, not a sign of a difficult puppy.
Luke Buchanan, Owner of The Toe Beans Co and Sydney's Puppy Trainer, wants new owners to know what's actually normal before the first night happens, because most of the panic comes from not knowing the range of what's typical.
Your puppy has just left the only warmth, smell, and company it has ever known. Some crying, whining, or restlessness in the first few nights is genuinely normal and not a sign you're doing something wrong. This usually improves within three to five nights as the new environment starts to feel familiar.
Have the crate already introduced with positive associations before night one, not used cold for the first time after dark. Position it somewhere the puppy can sense you, a bedroom rather than an isolated room, which usually reduces distress significantly compared to complete isolation.
A safe chew item and something that smells faintly of the litter or breeder's home, if you were given anything like that, can help. Keep the room dim rather than fully dark or fully lit, and keep the temperature comfortable, puppies can struggle to regulate their body heat as well as adult dogs.
Don't rush in at the first sound, but do check if it persists and escalates rather than settling within a reasonable few minutes. If your puppy needs a genuine toilet trip, take them out calmly, no play, no excitement, straight back to bed afterwards.
If you think that it is protest crying then simply turn the lights on, walk around the room pretending to do something for a few minutes and then turn the lights off and go back to bed. This helps your puppy understand that you are there without their being a direct reward in terms of attention which will bite you later on.
Avoid the two extremes: fully ignoring genuine distress for hours, and immediately scooping the puppy out of the crate the moment it makes a sound. The first can be genuinely distressing for a very young puppy in a new environment. The second teaches that crying reliably ends the crate experience, which makes every future night harder, not easier.
Very young puppies, especially under twelve weeks, often do need at least one genuine overnight toilet trip. Keep it low-key: minimal lighting, no talking beyond what's necessary, straight back to the crate afterwards. This isn't playtime, and treating it as calmly as possible helps the puppy settle back down faster.
On the first night set up the puppy's crate and playpen in your living room and for the first few nights one of you sleep on the couch. This helps you avoid the difficult challenge of moving the crate out of your bedroom and dealing with that later on.
Consistency in the routine, same bedtime, same wind-down process, same response to crying, does more to improve the first week than any single trick. A puppy that's had appropriate exercise and mental stimulation during the day, without over-exercising given the joint-growth limits at this age, typically settles faster at night than one that's been under-stimulated all day.
Crying that doesn't improve at all after five to seven nights, or is accompanied by other signs like not eating, lethargy, or visible distress beyond typical adjustment, is worth mentioning to your vet or a trainer rather than assuming it will simply pass.
Want reassurance or a plan before pickup day?
The Toe Beans Co runs a free SKOOL community where Sydney dog owners get training guides, Q&As, and direct support from Luke. It's free to join.
Upcoming Puppy Schools Across Sydney
Luke runs regular puppy schools right across Sydney, from the Lower North Shore through the Eastern Suburbs and out to Campbelltown. Check upcoming dates and book your spot.
Q: How many nights of crying is normal?
Three to five nights of some adjustment crying is a typical range. Improvement, even gradual, is the marker to watch for, rather than a completely silent first night.
Q: Should I let my puppy sleep in bed with me on night one?
It's a personal choice, but starting a habit on night one that you don't want to continue long-term makes it harder to change later. Decide the long-term arrangement before pickup day, not in the moment.
Q: My puppy still isn't settling after a week. What now?
Worth checking in with your vet to rule out anything physical, and a trainer can help troubleshoot the setup and routine if the environment itself might be part of what's keeping things unsettled.
Set up a crate or pen near your bed. Put something that smells of the litter inside if you can. Expect some crying. Do not rush in every time they make a sound, but do check if it goes on for a long time. The first night is usually the hardest.
It is your choice, but wherever they sleep on the first night tends to become the habit. If you want them to sleep in a crate long-term, start with the crate from night one. Moving them later takes more time and consistency.
Most puppies improve within 3 to 5 nights. The first night is almost always the worst. Consistency helps more than anything. If you respond the same way each time, they learn what to expect and settle faster.
For the first week or two, yes. An 8-week-old puppy cannot hold their bladder for more than 4 to 5 hours. Take them out before they start crying for it. Over the following weeks, gradually push that window out.
Rule out basic needs first: have they been to the toilet, are they warm enough, do they have water? If all those are met, the crying is usually adjustment. Try placing a warm water bottle under the blanket. Most puppies settle by night 3 or 4.
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ABSOLUTELY NOT. If you want a method like that I suggest you call the 1980's, go back there and never get a dog. We teach the dog calming code, a method based on positive action that reinforces your role as the leader in your dog's eyes.
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