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You've made it through the puppy phase. Now you've hit adolescence, and for many owners this is when things feel like they're falling apart. They're not. But you do need to understand what's happening and why.
Your dog is getting bigger and more physically capable. They're starting to test boundaries, not out of defiance, but because their confidence is growing and they're naturally exploring their social environment.
Training becomes more variable. They may not respond to commands they knew perfectly a month ago. This is normal adolescent behaviour, not a training failure.
This stage matters for another reason too: the socialisation window closes at 6 months. If your dog hasn't had regular, positive exposure to other dogs, people, and everyday situations by then, fear-based behaviours become much harder to shift once they're an adult. If you're behind on this, the next few weeks are the time to catch it up, not next year.

This is the age bracket where trainers see the most dogs surrendered. Owners expected a well-trained dog by now. Instead they've got an awkward, inconsistent adolescent who ignores recall, pulls on the lead, and finds everything more interesting than them.
What's happening biologically: the prefrontal cortex (the decision-making and impulse control centre) is still developing. It won't be fully developed until 18-24 months in most breeds.
What this means practically: lower your expectations of off-lead reliability. Increase management. Keep the Relational Leadership and positive reinforcement work going. Be patient.

Most dogs start to settle down around 8-12 months. You'll notice more consistency in their responses. Recall improves. Lead manners improve.
This is a good time to join a dog sports class, advance to more complex training, or bring in a trainer for any remaining challenges. If your dog missed the puppy school window, our Adolescent Program is built for exactly this stage, pairing adult dog training with continued puppy-specific support.
The 5-12 month period is when most owners feel like giving up. The right support makes all the difference. That's why we created our free Skool community.
Best part? It's completely free. No subscription. No catch. Just dog owners helping dog owners.
Our approach follows Relational Leadership and positive reinforcement, delivered by a trainer accredited by the Dog Trainer Academy and Red Cross-certified in pet first aid. Join the Skool community today and get the ongoing support you need to get through adolescence and come out the other side with the dog you always wanted.
This is one of the most common signs of adolescence. Between 6 and 12 months, hormonal changes and rapid brain development mean your puppy's ability to focus and respond will dip. It is not a training failure. Keep sessions short, stay consistent, and avoid repeating commands multiple times. The behaviour does come back.
Adolescence typically starts between 5 and 8 months, depending on breed and size. Smaller breeds tend to hit it earlier and come out the other side sooner. Larger breeds can stay in adolescence until 18 to 24 months. The end is gradual rather than sudden.
Yes, this is very common and it does not mean you have done anything wrong. The adolescent brain is still developing impulse control. Your puppy may seem to have forgotten things they knew reliably at 12 weeks. Go back to basics, reward heavily for responses that used to come easily, and keep your expectations realistic for this stage.
Management is the key word. Use a lead more than you did at 12 weeks. Put your puppy on a long line in the park rather than expecting reliable recall. Manage the environment so your adolescent does not practise behaviours you do not want. Training can feel slower during this period, and that is normal.
No. Working breeds and herding breeds, such as Border Collies and Kelpies, often have a more intense adolescence than companion breeds. Dogs bred for high drive and independence can be harder to manage during this stage. The core advice stays the same, but expectations should be adjusted for the dog in front of you.
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ABSOLUTELY NOT. If you want a method like that I suggest you call the 1980's, go back there and never get a dog. We teach the dog calming code, a method based on positive action that reinforces your role as the leader in your dog's eyes.
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