Frankie, an eight-month-old Cavoodle from Coogee, could sit beautifully for a treat in the kitchen and completely ignore his owner the second another dog appeared at the park. That gap, solid at home, gone the moment it mattered, is the single most common obedience complaint Luke Buchanan hears. It's rarely a training problem. It's usually a sequencing problem, and once Frankie's owner rebuilt the basics properly, the same commands held up at the park within a fortnight.
Luke Buchanan, Owner of The Toe Beans Co and Sydney's Puppy Trainer, works with new puppy owners across Sydney every week on exactly this. Obedience training goes wrong less often because of the commands themselves, and more often because of the order and mindset they're taught in.
Obedience isn't a trick, it's a pillar
Commands are only one part of what makes a puppy reliable. They sit alongside your own energy, which a puppy reads constantly, and consistency across every person in the household. Miss either of those and the commands themselves become optional the moment there's no treat in hand.
The clearest sign this gap exists: a puppy that performs perfectly in the lounge room and falls apart anywhere with real distraction. That's not a stubborn puppy. That's a command that was only ever taught in one context.
The energy meter: why most puppies fail before they start
Puppies operate on roughly a 1 to 10 arousal scale, and most owners think their puppy sits around a 3 or 4 when it's actually closer to a 6 or 7. Nothing new gets learned above about a 5. If your puppy is bouncing, mouthing, or fixated on something, that's not the moment to start a training session. Bring the energy down first, then teach.
Sit
Hold a treat at nose height and move it slowly back over the head. As the head tilts up, the bottom naturally drops. Mark the instant it touches the ground, then reward. Repeat in short bursts, five or ten reps, several times a day, before ever adding the word "sit" itself. Once the action is reliable, add the cue just before the puppy offers it, not after.
Stay
Ask for a sit, then reward for stillness of a single second before releasing with your chosen word, always the same one. Extend duration only once the puppy is solid, then add a small step back before extending duration again. Duration and distance are separate variables. Build them one at a time, never both together, or the whole thing collapses under the extra difficulty.
Recall
Use your puppy's name only right before calling it, never as a general attention-getter, so the name keeps its meaning. Never call a puppy to something unpleasant, a bath, nail clipping, the end of play at the park, because a recall that predicts something the puppy dislikes stops working within weeks. Reward recall generously every single time, even on the thousandth repetition, and practise first somewhere with zero distractions before ever testing it near other dogs.
Loose-leash walking
The moment the lead goes tight, stop moving forward. Wait for slack, then continue. Walking forward while the puppy pulls is the single most common mistake here, because it directly rewards the pulling with exactly what the puppy wanted, forward motion. Reward loose-lead moments generously, especially ones the puppy offers on its own without being asked, since capturing those builds the habit faster than any formal drill.
Common mistakes
Inconsistency is the master variable behind almost every obedience problem. One household member enforcing a rule while another lets it slide teaches the puppy the rule is negotiable, which it then tests constantly. Matching a puppy's excited energy with your own excited voice adds arousal rather than calming it. Skipping a release word means the puppy never learns when a command actually ends, so it guesses, and guesses wrong. And stacking duration, distance, and distraction all at once, rather than one variable at a time, is what makes a puppy that was doing fine suddenly fall apart.
How to know it's working
Less reliance on holding a treat to get compliance. Voluntary check-ins during a walk without being prompted. A recall that holds under mild distraction, not just in an empty room. If instead a command collapses the moment there's any distraction, or progress plateaus and then slips, that's usually a sign consistency dropped somewhere in the household, not that the puppy has stopped learning.
Session length matters more than most owners expect. Three to five minutes, several times a day, beats one long session every time. Puppies lose focus fast, and a session that runs too long teaches frustration rather than the command.
Want help putting this into practice?
The Toe Beans Co runs a free SKOOL community where Sydney dog owners get training guides, Q&As, and direct support from Luke. It's free to join.
Upcoming Puppy Schools Across Sydney
Luke runs regular puppy schools right across Sydney, from the Lower North Shore through the Eastern Suburbs and out to Campbelltown. Check upcoming dates and book your spot.
Frequently asked questions
Q: What age should I start obedience training?
From the day your puppy comes home, around 8 weeks. Keep sessions very short, three to five minutes, several times a day, and focus on Sit before anything else.
Q: Why does my puppy obey at home but not outside?
Almost always because the command was only ever practised in one low-distraction environment. Rebuild it gradually in busier settings, one variable at a time, rather than testing it cold at the park.
Q: How long until obedience training actually works?
Most puppies show real reliability within a few weeks of consistent, short daily sessions. The variable that slows this down more than any other is inconsistency between household members.
