The first week or two with a new puppy is usually calm. Then around week ten, it isn't. The mouthing gets harder, sleep breaks up, toileting accidents seem to increase instead of decrease, and the puppy who settled in so easily suddenly won't be left alone. Nobody warns first-time owners this is coming, and when it arrives, most assume something's gone wrong.
Nothing has gone wrong. Luke Buchanan, Owner of The Toe Beans Co and Sydney's Puppy Trainer, sees this pattern in almost every first-time puppy owner he works with, and it has a straightforward explanation once you know what to look for.

Why the honeymoon ends around week ten
The first one to two weeks at home are quiet mostly because your puppy is disoriented and cautious in an unfamiliar place. Once they feel safe, usually around week nine or ten, normal puppy behaviour shows up in full: testing boundaries, harder mouthing, resisting the crate, and broken sleep as their independence and energy grow.
None of this means the puppy is getting worse. It means the puppy has arrived. If the first fortnight was handled with sympathy but no structure, comforting every cry, letting the puppy set their own routine, they've already started drawing conclusions about who's actually in charge before week ten even hits. That's why the rules matter from day one, not from whenever things start feeling difficult.
What to do first
Set up a routine from day one: potty, exercise, eat, sleep, on repeat, rather than ad hoc care that changes by the hour. Start short separations immediately, twenty seconds, then longer, so being briefly alone is normal before it ever becomes an issue. Use a crate or pen from the start for safe, unsupervised time and overnight sleep, never as a punishment. Take your puppy to the toilet area on waking, after eating, after playing, and roughly every 45 to 60 minutes. And begin "making nothing of it" for new sounds and objects from day one, staying neutral rather than soothing, because this is the foundation the whole socialisation window sits on, not a separate later task.
The week-by-week reality, 8 to 16 weeks
Eight to ten weeks is the quiet-before-testing phase. Sleep is heavy, sixteen to eighteen hours a day is normal. Mouthing gets redirected, never scolded. Accidents are expected here, not a sign anything's failing.
Week ten is the trigger point. Expect harder mouthing, resistance to being left, broken sleep, and toileting accidents that feel like backsliding but are really just a more mobile puppy exploring more of the house. This is exactly where consistent handling either takes hold or starts slipping, and slippage here is what turns into a difficult six-month-old.
Ten to twelve weeks brings sit training and social play with known, vetted dogs, plus lead-walking introductions. Mouthing should be visibly reducing if redirection's been consistent. If it isn't reducing, that's the signal to tighten technique, not wait it out.
Twelve to sixteen weeks is where socialisation moves from nice-to-have to urgent, since the window is closing. This is also the stage most first-time owners underestimate, because the puppy looks like a "real dog" now, which tempts people to relax structure right when consistency matters most.
The socialisation countdown
The socialisation window closes at six months, and it does not reopen. That is the entire deadline. Whatever your puppy meets, hears, walks on and gets handled by before then lands as ordinary. The same thing met at eight months lands as a question they have to work out from scratch, which is why the fear-based and reactive patterns formed in that gap are so much harder to shift in an adult dog.
In Luke's experience working with hundreds of Sydney puppies, almost nobody misses the window on purpose. They lose it to a vaccination delay, then a busy fortnight, then a wet month, and the puppy is suddenly seven months old and meeting the world late.
Exposure has to be broad, not just frequent. Other vaccinated dogs in a genuine mix of breeds and sizes, because learning to read different types of dog is the actual point, not logging contact hours. People of different ages, appearances and energy levels. Children. Traffic, and the ordinary racket of a Sydney street. Different surfaces underfoot. And calm, pointless visits to the vet and the groomer before either is needed for real, so neither place is first met on a bad day.
Two things to get right while you do it. A mixed group is the point rather than a risk to manage around, so only split one at genuine weight extremes, a giant breed puppy alongside a toy breed, where a single paw outweighs the smaller dog. And don't let an over-excited dog crash your puppy. One bad introduction builds a fear association faster than six good ones undo it, and a puppy pushed over threshold learns the lesson you didn't intend to teach.
Mistakes first-time owners make
Comforting a crying puppy instead of staying calm and neutral feels like the kind thing to do, especially at night. But responding to distress, even out of love, teaches a puppy that distress gets attention, which entrenches the exact behaviour you're trying to reduce. Wait for a lull, even thirty seconds, before responding.
Treating toileting accidents as failures rather than routine gaps is another one. Owners assume the puppy "should know by now" and react with frustration. Go back to prevention instead, toilet trips every 45 to 60 minutes, plus after every wake, meal, and play session.
Relaxing structure the moment a puppy looks settled, usually around week ten to twelve, is the one that catches people off guard. The puppy seems confident, so owners ease off feeding rules or crate consistency. This is exactly the point where testing increases. It isn't a relapse. It's the puppy checking whether the structure from week one still holds.
And letting one person in the household bend the rules, a visiting relative making a fuss, one partner sneaking treats, feels harmless in isolation but can undo a week of consistency in one interaction. Brief every regular visitor, not just the primary owner.
How this differs from a purely command-based approach
A commands-only approach treats sleep disruption, accidents, and mouthing as separate problems to solve one at a time with redirection and rewards. Relational Leadership treats the first few weeks as parallel, not sequential, because behaviour, socialisation, and command training reinforce each other from day one. What's actually happening at week ten isn't a training gap. It's your puppy testing whether a calm, consistent decision-maker is in the house. That's why we tell new owners to nail down the basics in week one, not once "training starts."
This piece connects to three deeper topics worth reading next: what's really going on with your puppy's week-by-week socialisation, the full puppy training schedule, and how to handle it if your puppy's genuinely scared of noises during this stage.
Want help putting this into practice?
The Toe Beans Co runs a free SKOOL community where Sydney dog owners get access to training guides, Q&As, and direct support from Luke. It's free to join.
Upcoming puppy schools in Sydney
Luke runs regular puppy schools across Sydney, with venues in Paddington, Edgecliff, Zetland, Alexandria, Marrickville and Neutral Bay. All six are taking bookings, and anyone in Sydney can attend any location.
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Frequently asked questions
Q: Why has my puppy suddenly got worse around ten weeks?
A: They haven't got worse. They've settled enough to start testing boundaries, which is a normal developmental stage, not a regression. Keep your routine consistent through it.
Q: How much sleep should a young puppy be getting?
A: Sixteen to eighteen hours a day is normal at eight to ten weeks. Broken sleep at ten weeks and beyond is expected as independence and energy increase.
Q: When should I start puppy school in Sydney?
A: Around twelve weeks, once your puppy's vaccination schedule allows, is the ideal entry point. It gives you the longest run at the socialisation window before it closes at six months, which matters most for first-time puppy owners, who tend to start later than they meant to.